A whole house water softener and filter setup puts two tanks on your main line: a filter for chlorine, chloramine or iron, and a softener for hardness. This collection pairs SoftPro Elite softeners with Chlorine+ filters for city and well homes. Choose by water source first, then test results.
Whole House Water Softener and Filter: Why One Tank Can't Do Both Jobs
Key takeaways
- A softener removes the calcium and magnesium that cause scale. It does not remove chlorine or chloramine. A carbon filter does the reverse.
- More than 1 in 5 Americans drink water treated with chloramine (EPA), which ordinary carbon struggles with. Both SoftPro Chlorine+ filters use catalytic carbon.
- On city water the carbon filter goes first, so chlorine never reaches the softener resin.
- About 43 million Americans rely on private wells (USGS). On a well, an iron filter or pH neutralizer goes ahead of the softener, after the pressure tank.
- The SoftPro Elite comes in 32,000, 40,000, 48,000 and 64,000 grain sizes. Chlorine+ filters come in 1.0 cu. ft. (1–3 baths) and 1.5 cu. ft. (4–6 baths).
- The bone char fluoride filter is for city water only. It is not recommended for private wells.
- You can add the matching filter right on the softener's product page. Orders ship within 1–3 business days.
What is a whole house water softener and filter system?
A whole house water softener and filter system is two treatment tanks installed where water enters your home. The filter removes chemicals or minerals a softener can't touch, such as chlorine, chloramine or iron. The softener then removes hardness through ion exchange, so every tap, shower and appliance gets treated water.
The two machines solve different problems. Inside a softener, resin beads trade calcium and magnesium for sodium. That stops scale in your water heater, on fixtures and in your dishwasher, but it leaves the disinfectant your city adds. A carbon filter works by adsorption and, with catalytic carbon, by breaking chloramine down. It improves taste and odor, but it leaves hardness in. Buy only one and you fix only half of what most city homes deal with.
This side-by-side shows what each tank does and needs:
| Factor | Water softener (SoftPro Elite) | Whole house carbon filter (Chlorine+) |
|---|---|---|
| Main job | Removes calcium and magnesium hardness | Removes chlorine and chloramine |
| Also handles | Some clear-water iron and manganese (well model) | Pesticides, herbicides, taste and odor |
| Leaves in your water | Chlorine, chloramine, taste and odor | Hardness minerals |
| How it works | Ion exchange resin, recharged with salt brine | Upflow catalytic carbon bed |
| Power and drain | Needs an outlet and a drain line | ✗ No electricity, no backwash, no drain line |
| Routine upkeep | Add salt to the brine tank | Replace the carbon after several years, not the tank |
Do you need both a water softener and a whole house filter?
You need both if your water is hard and also carries something a softener can't remove. On city water that is usually chlorine or chloramine. On a well it is usually iron, sulfur or acidic water. If your only problem is scale, a softener alone may be enough.
City water is disinfected on purpose, and utilities must keep a residual in the pipes. Federal rules cap that residual at 4.0 mg/L for chlorine and for chloramines (40 CFR 141.65), so some level reaches your tap by design. More than one in five Americans now get chloramine-treated water, according to the EPA. Chloramine lasts longer in pipes than chlorine, and standard carbon handles it poorly at whole-house flow rates. That is why the SoftPro Chlorine+ filters use catalytic carbon.
Chlorine matters to the softener too. It wears down softener resin over time. The SoftPro Elite HE uses 10% crosslink resin, which stands up to chlorine and chloramine longer than standard 8% resin. A carbon filter in front protects it further.
Wells are different. They carry no chlorine, but the USGS notes that private well water is not routinely tested and that homeowners are responsible for monitoring it. Your partner filter should come from a test, not a guess.
Which goes first: the water softener or the filter?
On city water, the carbon filter goes first on the main line and the softener comes right after it. That way chlorine and chloramine are removed before they reach the softener resin. On a well, the softener goes after the pressure tank, with any iron filter or pH neutralizer installed ahead of it.
Both SoftPro carbon filters are built for this spot. Water flows up through the carbon bed, which keeps the bed loose, stops channeling and adds contact time without a big pressure drop. Neither filter backwashes, so there's no drain line to run at the front of the system.
Here is the order, first to last, for each setup:
| Position | City water | Well water |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Main shutoff and bypass | Well pump and pressure tank |
| 2 | Chlorine+ or Chlorine+ & Fluoride filter | Sediment filter, if your water carries sand or grit |
| 3 | SoftPro Elite HE softener | Iron filter or pH neutralizer, if your test calls for one |
| 4 | Water heater and fixtures | SoftPro Elite for Well Water softener |
| 5 | None | Water heater and fixtures |
Reverse the order and the resin takes the hit: chlorine on city water, iron fouling on a well.
Which water softener and filter combo fits your water?
Match the pair to your water source. City homes pair the SoftPro Elite HE with the Whole House Chlorine+ Filter, or with the Chlorine+ & Fluoride Filter to also take out fluoride. Well homes pair the SoftPro Elite for Well Water with an iron filter or pH neutralizer chosen from a water test.
| Your water | Softener | Filter (installed first) | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| City: hard, plus chlorine or chloramine | SoftPro Elite HE | Whole House Chlorine+ | Most city homes |
| City: hard, chlorine or chloramine, plus fluoride | SoftPro Elite HE | Chlorine+ & Fluoride (4–6 baths) | City homes that want fluoride out at every tap |
| Well: hard, little iron | SoftPro Elite for Well Water | None needed, per your test | Hard well water only |
| Well: hard, plus heavier iron, sulfur or low pH | SoftPro Elite for Well Water | Pro Iron Filter or a pH neutralizer, sized to pump flow | Iron staining, rotten-egg odor or acidic water |
| Well: wants fluoride removed | SoftPro Elite for Well Water | ✗ Not the bone char filter | Call us; it isn't recommended for private wells |
You don't need to order the two separately. The SoftPro Elite HE product page lets you add the Whole House Chlorine+ Filter or the Chlorine+ & Fluoride Filter as a package option. The SoftPro Elite for Well Water page offers a Softener + Pro Iron Filter package, sized by your well pump's flow rate.
What should you look for in a softener and filter combo?
Look for a softener that regenerates on demand with chlorine-resistant resin, and a filter whose media matches your city's disinfectant. Then check that both are sized to your home's hardness, people and bathrooms. A combo is only as good as its weakest tank, so check each one separately.
- Catalytic carbon, not plain carbon, if your city uses chloramine. Your utility's annual water quality report says which disinfectant it uses.
- Upflow design on the filter for more contact time and less pressure loss. Both Chlorine+ filters run upflow.
- No-backwash filter so the front tank needs no drain or power.
- 10% crosslink resin in a city softener, which holds up to chlorine longer than 8% resin.
- Demand-based regeneration that tracks real water use. Both SoftPro Elite models regenerate only when needed, with upflow brining that uses less salt and water than downflow designs.
- A true 1" valve so showers keep their pressure when the dishwasher runs. The Elite HE has one.
- Well-specific resin on a well. The Elite for Well Water uses fine mesh resin that also picks up some clear-water iron and manganese.
- Warranty in writing. Both Elite softeners carry a lifetime warranty on both tanks and the control valve.
How do you size a water softener and filter combo?
Size each tank separately. The softener's grain capacity comes from your water hardness and household size. The carbon filter's size comes from your number of bathrooms. On a well, any iron filter or pH neutralizer must match your well pump's flow rate, or it can't backwash properly.
Softener. Hardness times daily water use sets the grain capacity. The SoftPro Elite comes in 32,000, 40,000, 48,000 and 64,000 grain sizes. Hardness is often listed in mg/L as calcium carbonate. The USGS classes 61–120 mg/L as moderately hard, 121–180 as hard and anything above 180 as very hard. The sizing calculator does the math in about a minute.
Carbon filter. The Whole House Chlorine+ Filter comes in 1.0 cu. ft. for 1–3 bathrooms and 1.5 cu. ft. for 4–6 bathrooms. The Chlorine+ & Fluoride Filter comes in one size for 4–6 bathrooms: a 1.5 cu. ft. tank holding 1.0 cu. ft. of catalytic carbon and 0.5 cu. ft. of bone char. The catalytic carbon takes the chlorine load, which leaves the bone char free to work on fluoride.
Well add-on filter. Measure your pump's flow rate before you choose. Shut off every faucet, open a hose bib near the well pump into a 5-gallon bucket, and time the fill. The Softener + Pro Iron Filter package comes in 6–7, 8–10 and 11+ GPM versions. Don't round up.
When is a softener and filter combo the wrong fix?
A softener and carbon filter combo is the wrong fix when your water isn't hard, when your main problem is bacteria, or when a well carries heavy iron or sulfur that needs a dedicated filter. It is also wrong when you only want better drinking water from one tap. Test first.
- Your water is soft. If your report shows under 60 mg/L, which the USGS calls soft, skip the softener. A whole house filter alone may cover chlorine taste and odor.
- Bacteria shows up on a well test. Neither tank is a disinfection system. Look at UV systems, retest through a certified lab and talk to a pro.
- Heavy iron, sulfur or acidic water. Carbon is the wrong partner here. You need an iron filter, a sulfur filter or a pH neutralizer ahead of the softener.
- Fluoride on a private well. The bone char filter is not recommended for private well water. Call us before you buy anything for fluoride on a well.
- You only care about drinking water. An under-sink reverse osmosis system treats one tap for far less.
- Nitrates or other lab-flagged contaminants. Start with nitrate removal options and a lab test, not a softener.
Not sure what's in your well? The Ultimate Well Water Test Kit covers what a softener pair depends on: hardness, iron, manganese, pH and sulfur.
Not sure which softener and filter your water needs?
Get a free water analysis and softener sizing report for your home. It shows what's in your local water and which system fits your household. It takes about 60 seconds, with no obligation.
Rather talk it through? Call our water experts at 866-278-4130, Mon–Fri 9am–7pm CST.
How we built this guide: Product specs, sizes and prices come from Quality Water Treatment's own SoftPro product pages. Public water and well statistics come from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (chloramine use and the federal disinfectant residual limits in 40 CFR 141.65), the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (2022 water fluoridation statistics) and the U.S. Geological Survey (private well use and hardness classes). Your own water test decides what you need.
Whole House Water Softener and Filter: FAQ
Should you have a whole house filter and a water softener?
Yes, if your water is hard and also has chlorine, chloramine, iron or another problem a softener can't fix. A softener only removes hardness, and a carbon filter only removes chemicals like chlorine, so each covers what the other misses. If your water is soft, a filter alone may be enough.
What is the difference between a water filter and a water softener?
A water softener removes calcium and magnesium through ion exchange to stop scale. A whole house carbon filter removes chlorine, chloramine, pesticides, and taste and odor problems. Neither one does the other's job.
Which goes first, the water softener or the carbon filter?
The carbon filter goes first on city water, then the softener. That removes chlorine before it can wear down the softener resin. On a well, any iron filter or pH neutralizer goes ahead of the softener, after the pressure tank.
What is the best whole house water softener and filter system?
The best system is the one matched to your water source and test results. For most city homes, that's the SoftPro Elite HE with the Whole House Chlorine+ Filter, or the Chlorine+ & Fluoride Filter if you want fluoride out. For wells, it's the SoftPro Elite for Well Water with the filter your test calls for.
How much does a whole home water softener and filtration system cost?
At QWT, the SoftPro Elite HE starts at $1,367 and the Elite for Well Water at $1,327. The Whole House Chlorine+ Filter starts at $1,015 and the Chlorine+ & Fluoride Filter is $1,367. Your total depends on grain size, filter size and any well add-on, and you can add the filter as a package option on the softener page.
How often should you change a water softener filter?
The SoftPro Chlorine+ filters need no cartridge changes. The catalytic carbon lasts for years, and when it's spent you replace the carbon, not the tank. The softener itself needs only salt added to the brine tank.
Can I use a water softener and filter combo on well water?
Yes, with the right pieces. Use the SoftPro Elite for Well Water, and add an iron filter or pH neutralizer ahead of it if your test shows heavy iron, sulfur or acidic water. The bone char fluoride filter is not recommended for private wells.
Can I install a water softener and filter myself?
Many homeowners do. The carbon filter needs only an inlet and outlet, with no drain or power, while the softener also needs a drain line and an outlet. If you're not comfortable cutting into your main line, hire a plumber, and call our team with questions at 866-278-4130.
Related: Water softeners for city water · Water softeners for well water · Whole house water filters · Iron filters · pH neutralizers · Well water filtration systems · Replacement media · Well water test kit



